The Dago Diaries

Day 95 miles hiked 0

Day 96 CDT mile 1510.7, Miles hiked 11.4

NOLS HQ in Lander

Our zero-day in Lander was a real treat and a wonderful surprise.  The town of Lander has a wonderful Main Street with historic buildings and a good vibe about the town.  Having only one day to tackle town chores I made sure to maximize my time by going on my own.

I woke at 7 am and headed for breakfast next door at the Oxbow Restaurant where I inhaled two pork chops, two eggs, hash browns and a pancake for good measure, I love being able to eat what I want, need to keep that in check when I get home.

I walked into the post office as they opened and retrieved my boxes, went back to the hotel, sorted my food and items, made a list and hit the town to complete my task.  First I went to the outfitter with Cheezy where we picked up our bear spray, her ursack (which is a Kevlar bag you put your food in and tie to a tree in bear country), some Wind River maps and some other items.

History in the town

From there Cheezy went back to the hotel and I headed to do our laundry.  While clothes washed I ran to ACE hardware and had some pipe cut to extend the length of my hiking poles for my tent.  By noon I was done my chores and enjoyed some chicken wings, a burger, and beer.

The rest of my day was spent working on my blog, catching up on emails, and washing my pack and other items before entering grizzly country.  We also spent a couple hours getting informed about the forest fire that has the trail closed at the north end of the trail and potentially cutting off our way to Dubois in a week.  A call to Teresa at CDTC and some help from Laura at the outfitter had us in good shape with an alternate route.

mmmm cowfish

We went downtown for what was one of the top meals on this trip, Cowfish Restaurant, and Lander Brewing.  We enjoyed good beers, calamari and I indulged and had a 14oz ribeye, one thing about the CDT I have had some remarkable steaks along the way.  We wrapped up dinner with some cheesecake and then turned in for the night.
Today was a bit of a hurry up and wait, after getting up and calling home I had a McDonald’s breakfast and then went back and sorted my pack and got ready to go.  At 10 am the others showed up to do the same as they were packing I made one last trip to town to see if  I could get the others odor proof sacks to line their bear bags.  The folks at NOLS couldn’t help me but their headquarters was cool and the folks friendly.

When I returned to our cabin/hotel Soju was there.  He is from Korea and super great dude, we got him into the shower to wash up and do some “laundry” then we all went to McDonald’s to use their wifi and get ready to leave town.

Now I must note we stayed at a very interesting place in Lander, the Holiday Motel which is a 1950’s hotel that has been resided with logs to look rustic.  They had a decent cabin for $70 a night it had a queen bed and two sets of bunk beds but it was hot and the AC was inadequate. While in Lander it was 98 degrees and our little cabin was like a sauna.

Ok, so it was time to leave and get back to the trail.  My hiking partners are impatient when it comes to hitching, and if we don’t get a ride in ten minutes they are frustrated, I figure who the hell would pick up someone looking like me, so every time I get a ride I’m stoked because it’s a bonus.  We waited 20 minutes and then a guy going the other way said,”where you need to go?”  His name was Roger and he is a semi-retired teacher who lives in Lander.  What a great guy he drove two miles through town to get gas then drove us 28 miles back to the trail even though he had no reason to go all the way up there.   When we arrived at the trailhead Freebird was there so Roger loaded him up to go to town.  Even in Wyoming, I am blown away by the kindness of random strangers.
We hit the trail made some miles and at 8 pm made camp at the edge of the woods by some ponds.  Maverick and Buttercup fished while I cooked and we all turned in early for the night.

Buttercup leading the way through high desert on our way into the Winds

CDT mile 1499.4, miles hiked 31.5

Here I am having to decide should I go north or head home on the Oregon trail

While I was packing up in my tent I heard maverick and buttercup getting ready to go it was about 5:30 and they planned to push hard to South Pass City to get Buttercup’s box before they closed.  Buttercup also wanted ample time to check out the museum and buildings at South Pass.  I told them to have fun, my body preferred to walk its pace and enjoy the last day in the basin, I shouted over to Cheezy and she said that was her plan too, so once again we would walk to town together.

The Great Divide Basin in Wyoming

We walked along the road and soon spotted some weird trail markers along it that were made of cement, as we approached we saw the words, California Trail and Oregon Trail.  Ah this must be the famous split rock which is where the wagon trains decided to go to California or Oregon.  It reminded me of a tale I was told so I shared it with Cheezy.

When the wagon trains came west they approached split rock.  There stood a man with a bible in his left hand and a large nugget of gold in his right hand.  “Which one will you choose?” Asked the man, those who chose gold-headed to California those the bible Oregon.  Now there is most likely no truth to that tale, but it is a good example of the differences between the culture of the two states.

Even tiny longs for our home on Oregon

After numerous pictures and a break at the Oregon Trail I have to admit, I thought about hooking a left and heading home on the good old Oregon Trail, but not wanting to miss the Wind River range I plodded north as I have done for months.  The day was sunnier than the last few and a bit warmer, so Cheezy and I high tailed it to the Sweet Water River where we ate lunch at 11 and reveled in the fact we had already gone over 14 miles.  I soaked my feet, ate some food and filtered a lot of water.  This was the last water for 15 miles and given the temps we needed to carry extra.

my sawyer kept my water clean and tasty

Cheezy and I took the CDT only about a mile later to realize we could have stayed more direct and hiked the road.  Oh well we saw a cool rock canyon and then hit the road and took it instead of having to walk parallel to it through the sage brush.  We were making good time so we figured if we pushed a bit we could make south pass city by 5:30 in time to get soda and ice cream.  We worked our way up to the high point and rejoined the trail.  Then we rolled up and down the roller coaster ever closer to the sweet taste of soda and ice cream.  We spied South Pass City off in the distance and turned it on a bit more.

South Pass City was worth the stop

As we entered south pass city we stopped at a few historic buildings but our food desires took over so we strode down the street to the store only to discover a locked door and two packs out front but not our hiking partners. we were crushed but we bucked up, grabbed our cameras and walked around looking at the museum.  The boys arrived and told us well the ice cream selection was no good but we have a soda for each of you, out of the pack they pulled to cold Pepsi sodas and they were great.  We took a break and then all together headed to the highway.

We hitched for about 15 minutes when a nice lady in a sub stopped to see what was wrong with us, nothing we just need a ride to Lander.  We were her very first hitch hikers and she was nervous yet fun.  She even stopped at a scenic overlook for us to take pictures.  As we came to town she dropped us by at the Holiday Inn where we had a cabin reserved.  20 minutes later we were eating McDonald’s and checking out our online lives.

Red Canyon on our way to Lander

I really enjoyed the basin in fact it was a highlight of the CDT for me.  The sweeping views, wild horses and easy miles were a treat.  As the wind River range loomed in the distance we could see our future yet enjoy where we were in the moment.

I’ll always cherish my to time in the basin, here I sit in the dirt trying to type today’s blog on my tiny phone

CDT mile 1467.8, miles hiked 31.4

This guy, 3 months together and we still get along

Three months down, in some ways it doesn’t seem real in others I can’t believe it’s over halfway done.  Three months and I am still traveling with Buttercup how random to have met him at the border and be with him since but he’s a great hiking partner and good company.

So being three months I just ran some math, to finish the trail by Sept 15, we need to average a total of 20.8 miles per day, however, I plan to only hike 45 of those 56 days so I need average 25mpd and that’s would allow for 11 more zero days if wanted.

The day was a treat we had cloud cover most of the day and the temps never got too high.  I was fast this morning and led most of the first half of the day. We saw more wild horses, one lone stallion who paused in a hill across from us and then put his head down and ate grass.  The next group we saw was a group of three. They ran towards us and came broadside I have some good pictures on my real camera that I can put up in a couple of weeks when I hit Darby.

Wild Horses, this lone stallion was simply majestic

We also met our first two southbounders (SOBO’s) today.  The first was named Phantom and he is from England.  He gave us some conditions of what was ahead.  Later we met Mammoth a young man from Norway who we chatted with.  I must say the cdt is a serious international affair these days.

Phantom our first sobo, from Left to Right Maverick, Allgood, Phantom and Cheezy

We walked the final stretch to the last water and took our time filling extra since we would be dry camping.  We carried on from the spring a couple of miles and camped upon soft grass off the side of the trail.  As day turned to night we were rewarded with its and amazing sunset and the rising full moon.

The wonderful desert sky always impresses

I look forward to the next two months and finishing the trail.  It will be great to go home and see Suzy and Karluk.  Until then I am going to savor every single day I have left out here and make memories to last a lifetime.

My home away from home, a Mountain Laurel Designs Cuben Duomid

CDT mile 1436, miles hiked 30.4

Look at that sky

We woke up late since we had arrived so late the night before.  Smelly Jesus gave us a hard time as he greeted us a good morning as he came into camp, he had camped right there the night before we arrived.  We chatted and he took off about a half hour or so before us.

Gas pipeline lined our route

We started out as a group the trail today was a series of dirt roads that we followed up and down hills throughout the day.  I walked with buttercup until the first break we chatted and joked around.  After the break we started out and cheesy said she couldn’t keep the pace so she dropped back I walked with buttercup to the top of the biggest hill and he waited for the others.  I decided to keep going figuring they would catch me, but nope.
I walked through the hills listening to the faint wind, cows mooing at me, and enjoying my surroundings of sage and grasses.  That’s all we have had today: roads, sage bushes and some wild grasses and cows let’s not forget the cows.  I finally came to our next water source the A&M spring and reservoir.  I didn’t see it at first but in spied Smelly Jesus coming down the side road to it, he said it was awesome.

A&M reservoir an oasis in the basin

I pushed my way through cows and there it was on the other side of the cattle guard and fence, a big, clear cold lake.  I trotted down to the water, ripped off my shoes and stuck my feet in the water.  Soon the others arrived and we each took a swim and rinsed clothes and began digging into lunch.  We lounged in the sun and enjoyed the water an hour and a half later we packed up and got moving, 15 more miles to go.

Loving the water and catching rays

When we left I fell behind my shoes were filling with sand and I was enjoying the solitude and being in my head.  I spent the rest of the day walking solo behind the others about a 1/8 of a mile and got lost thinking of home, my past and my future.  But then I decided to just enjoy the here and now.  For hours I walked soaking up the scenery, giant clouds that eventually drizzled on me, sweeping mountains in the distance with snow, sagebrush smells and even the sting of a nettle.

I love desert sky

We arrived at a spring pouring for a pipe, the well had in it a nice bocce ball set and journal going back to 2013.  I saw a lot of my friend’s names and the set out after the others.  4 miles from camp we had to cross a dirt road there stood a dude in black pants and a Camo shirt.  His name is Canacker and he is a long distance hiker from Saskatchewan a so met him back in New Mexico the day before we hiked into Lordsburg.

Bocce in the basin

Canacker had the set up a cooler of cold Gatorade and cold candy bars.  We chatted and drank cold beverages and ate tons of Twix bars, trail magic in the most unlikely of places.  After the treat, we headed the last 4 miles to camp.  I hiked with cheesy and we chatted about Johnny coming in five days and how excited she was and also her concern that she might need to go slower for him and that we might all wind up apart.  We discussed options and how things might work, but agreed to wait to see how things go once he’s here.

Canacker was the man!

We made camp at sunset Smelly Jesus has camped here with us and we all enjoyed dinner and his company.  Time for bed, we plan to do another 30+ tomorrow to make Lander Tuesday night or Wed.

CDT mile 1405.6, miles hiked 30

Hello Clarise

For some strange reason the Continental Divide split into a western range and an eastern range right about Rawlins, the result is what is known as the great divide basin.  The basin is a huge swatch of high desert around 7,000′ but is also a big bowl between the ranges.  The CDT takes you right through the basin on your way to the wind river range.  Horror stories are told of the basin by previous CDT hikers: sandstorms, gnarly water, long waterless stretches, blazing sun and terrible chafing.  It’s sort of like the desert version of the San Juan mountains.  Today we woke up at 7 and left town at about 9:45 under a cloudy sky and low 80 degree temps.

Welcome to the basin, your gonna die

After our town road walk we entered the basin the first 15 miles took us along old roads, then a new road and then cross-country until we crested the hill and spotted our first water source a solar well and spring along with a large tank.  There was a group of wild horses enjoying the grass and water where the tank was, when they saw us coming they ran up the hill, then stopped, looked us over and slowly walked away over the ridge.  I love all the wild horse out here they are amazing.

Wild horses were amazing

Now seeing how it was 2:15 we all decided we should push to the next spring in 15 miles.  We set off at 3 pm, the trail for the next few miles was cross-country through sagebrush, each step sent the wonderful smell of sage wafting up to us, a real desert treat and bonus it covers up our bo!  We then hit the highway for a mile and again turned and went cross-country.  We spotted 3 more wild horses and as they started away a 4th appeared a young colt.  We then found the “road” and I use that term so lightly and trudged on to bull spring.

Delicious spring water direct from the source

We took a break at 6 pm and still had 9 miles to go.  We fueled up and the set off at a decent pace wanting to make it before dark.  The trail was not as easy as we had hoped and at about 9:30 we arrived at bull springs, tired yet happy to have made it.  Water bottles were filled tents set up and dinner cooked.  It’s now 10:30 well past bedtime so I will end things here so I can finish my dinner and get some zzzzzs.

Why the long face?

Miles hiked 0

This creepy circus has been following us since Cuba, NM

We all slept in late enjoying a cool room with blackout curtains.  When we did rise we headed to the lobby for the free hot breakfast.  After watching each other gobble up waffles, French toast and eggs with cheese we arranged for the local bus/shuttle to take us to town for $0.50/each.  The shuttle dropped in town at the post office and there is where we spent the next hour or so getting organized.

Buttercup enjoying a hot hotel waffle

Each of us had our bounce boxes there so we went to the lobby where the PO boxes were and used the tables to sort through our boxes, charge devices and download photos.  Once done we packed the boxes back up and sent them forward to Dubois where we should be in two weeks time.

Sorting boxes at the Post Office

We then strolled back to the Thai restaurant which had an all you can eat buffet for $9.50.  I powered down 5 delicious plates of curry, spring rolls, pork, chicken etc…..after having our fill the shuttle bus came and took us back to the hotel.  We spent the afternoon napping, catching up with home, blogging, etc….

Since my chores were done and there was a bar on site I strolled in for a few cocktails with the locals and dinner.  Man what scene that was I was sitting with two guys who work in the refinery, they were fun to chat with but a bit on the redneck side of the spectrum.  Then their buddy rolled in with a shirt that read “pissing off PETA members one kill at a time, 307 club”.  It was a classic for sure.  I did meet a talk with a nice retired couple own their way to Yellowstone from Texas.  I gave them some spots to check out along their road trip.  Since it was 9 and I had drunk enough to numb any pain I had from the previous day’s hike I turned into bed.  Maverick was fixing gear for folks so we sat up a bit and watched Ghostbusters before finally going to sleep so we could leave in the morning.

A cool old Masonic temple in downtown Rawlins

CDT mile 1338.5, miles hiked 25.6

Battle Pass our first gateway to a Wyoming town

We roused out of our beds and packed up.  We had arranged a 9 am ride back to the trail from the owner of the Vancher’s Big Horn Lodge.  Cheezy and I rolled up to the coffee shop and had a breakfast of biscuits and gravy and some lattes.  I wrote postcards to home and then we set off back to the trail.

The trail started off by climbing a nice old road up to a peak.  The peak gave us views of few upcoming trail, mesas, desert and rolling hills.  We all got giddy knowing we would be going low and walking through sagebrush and no longer forest of Beatle kill and blowdowns.

Divide Peak

The first ten miles went quick and we finally stopped for lunch at 12:30, we sat in the woods enjoying the shade and chatting about our time apart.  Buttercup told us of his time alone and missing us, we told him about our trail magic and fun adventures.

We all then took off on the trail it wound through the forest and then it started, mass amounts of blowdowns.  We worked our way over them and around them eventually meeting by a creek which was 20 miles for our start.  We drank water, ate snacks and aired out our tired feet.  I just got new altra lone peak 2.5 in Encampment so taking time to rest my feet was good since they are adjusting to the new shoes.

Cheezy goes over a jumblenof blowdowns

We agreed to camp in 5 miles at a creek and as we hiked the next mile we walked out of the forest and into the high desert.  We were in awe by the rolling hills, the sage brush, desert flowers and desert landscape as far as we could see.  We all were giddy as we knew we would not see snow or blowdowns for a couple of hundred miles now.  We reached the creek but the camping was no good so we moved on 1.5 miles to the next one.

An old miners cabin along the trail

Our camp is amongst soft grass and a small spring.  We ate dinner and told jokes laughing and reveling in our new enviornent.  As we turned in for a bed 6 wild horses appread on the rise across from us and are now enjoying water and grass as we watch them.  They all range in color but are magnificent creatures, I just hope no one steps on me as I cowboy camp tonight under the wild Wyoming sky.

Maverick’s tent under a sheltering sky