The Dago Diaries

CDT mile 906.1, miles hiked 22.5

The snowfield on the far right nearly killed me

Happy two month anniversary to us, and boy did the CDT let us know how much she appreciated us being here still.  So as we left camp we had to cross about 200 yards of steep snow on the trail.  The temps had dropped below freezing making the snow solid and icy.  Cheezy and I opted to put on our microspikes to cross and Buttercup went below.  Cheezy followed in Zippy’s footsteps and went across fine, I started across and 3/4 of the way my foot slipped out from under me and next thing I know I was sliding out of control on my back. I tried to self-arrest with my poles but too late, I stopped when my butt met the rock below.  Now given how much weight I have lost my butt doesn’t have that much extra meat these days and the impact hurt. Once upon my feet, we inspected the damage and I was told, “looks like the other side from the Creede fall,” so hey at least I have a matching pair of butt cheeks.

Back in the wilderness and a valley!

I was shaken a bit but we carried on, the trail followed the divide up and down and eventually dropped is at Cottonwood Pass.  Since it was Saturday there were plenty of Texas tours it there with their kids.  Buttercup had given them his Tyvek ground sheet so the kids could sled on the snow.  In exchange, they gave us some breakfast burritos, orange juice, Gatorade and water (all 4 of us were out of water).  We chatted a bit about home and our hike it turns out one the guys, Jake was the nephew of a former co-worker Richard Winemiller, what a small world.

The final miles in the company of Zippy

The rest of the morning was pleasant we climbed up from the pass and then descended a snow-free valley for 7 miles.  We all enjoyed actually hiking again and made decent time, we agreed to meet at a creek a mile up the trail that would split the first climb in two.  When Cheezy and I arrived Zippy was there all packed up and told us all it was time for him to push on further on his own.  We said our goodbyes and as he walked away I felt sad, Zippy and I had so much in common it was nice to have him around, but I knew this time would come and I wish him the best on the rest of his hike.

Coming down from lake Anne Pass

The three of us sat around discussing our game plan for Twin Lakes and Mt Elbert.  All of us want to climb the mountain but none of us want to pay to stay in Twin Lakes, so we agreed to walk in tomorrow, eat a meal, resupply, charge devices and hike out a few mile to set up for Mt Elbert on Monday morning.

After we had lunch and our first long break in weeks the three of us started up towards Lake Ann Pass.  The climb was long but not so bad, the routes were mostly snow free and we made good time up the trail.  When I reached the pass Buttercup said, “now we get to have some fun” his way of saying, “hold on tight, your ass is about to be handed to you.”

We climbed a small rock outcropping and looked at the big cornice overhanging the steep side of the mountain and our path to the valley below.  We saw where others had scrambled up the rock band and then descended the snow.  We agreed to give it a go but frankly after the mornings’ slip and Cheezy’s novice status, both of us were nervous.

Looking back at where we came from

We got to the top of the rock and the worked out way down, luckily the snow was soft and we were able to kick in deep steps on the descent.  We eventually made the valley below and took in the sights of the cirque we stood in, Lake Anne is still frozen and like the rest of Colorado, I wonder when summer every arrives in the alpine zone.

Camp with an amazing view

The three of us worked out way down the alpine tundra and me to the forest.  The CDT was not done with us yet.  The next couple of miles had numerous examples swollen stream crossings, one, in particular, was a waterfall of sorts and there was so much frothy white water you couldn’t see where to put your feet, luckily years of wading for steelhead gave me the confidence to cross the creek.  We continued on and finally made camp on a knoll in the valley.

Since Buttercup lost his tent the other day I agreed to cowboy camp with him tonight.  Since crossing into Colorado and cowboy camping that night this is the first time I have cowboy camped in weeks.  Just my luck the full moon is back and bright as ever but it will be was treat to sleep under the stars and see the night sky again.

2 months in and still loving it out here.  I have gotten over being homesick but I really miss the wife and pets.  My body, for the most part, is holding up well it only seems to not like my slips and falls.  My gear is in good working order, but most of all I am still in good working order and looking forward to what the next month had in store for us.

CDT mile 883.6 miles hiked 21.6

Artistic river foam

The collegiates are named for various peaks named after colleges, however, I believe they are called that because while you are in them you earn a degree in suffering.  Today was a long hard day the 21.6 miles we’re hard earned ones going up and down from as low as 10,500′ and three times going as high as 12,800′.

The trail along the famous alpine tunnel

The day started with below freezing temps from our high camp last night.  After we got packed and rolling we strolled downhill to a valley and then immediately started a mellow climb up the old railroad grade.  We stopped along the way and read about the south park train and the old alpine tunnel.  We eventually had to leave the nice grade and due to snow, we walked cross country up to the first pass.

Cheezy crossing one of the many blowdowns

When I reached the first pass Buttercup and Zippy were plotting their own alternates along the actual divide.  Cheezy and I decided to stick to the trail and we had a predetermined spot to meet.  They left us and the two of us walked down an open valley easily avoiding snow but once in the trees, we had a heck of a time following the trail due to all the snow and blowdowns.  We finally sorted out our way and then started the long climb back up.

A couple hours later and we made treeline and decided to eat since we had been walking for 3 1/2 hours.  We ate a quick snack and then right as we started to get ready to go the boys arrived, the said the next ridge was too risky so they decided to come back to the trail.  We all climbed the final 900′ to the top.  Before us lied numerous mountains and valleys that we would cross for the remainder of the day.

Sometimes you have to stop and enjoy the view

The Collegiates remind me of the Sierras where I love to go hiking.The steep Rocky Mountains, lakes, and various drainages.  We worked our way through each drainage and then up to a pass.  At 6pm we started up the final one, an hour later after post holing, crossing steep snow packed slopes and walking through numerous flows of water we reached the top of our final pass for the day.

Grinding out the final downhill while trying to find a decent camp

The wind was howling and the 4 of us started our descent hoping to find water and a suitable camp.  We eventually found some silty water that would have to do and 1/2 mile later we found a decent spot to camp with a great view of mountains and a lake below.  A dinner of tortellini and sauce along with a slab of the fresh rye bread from Salida rounded out a very long hard day.

Colorado is an amazing state with great mountain beauty, but man it is kicking my butt.

Zippy takes in the view and thinks about life

CDT mile 862, miles hiked 18.5

Hikers divided, the Atlantic crew from Germany and the Pacific crew from the PNW

We woke to POD making us homemade breakfast burritos.  I sorted and packed up my kit as we were heading out at 10 am.  One last chore we had to do was go to the post office to mail our bounce boxes off to Grand Lake where we should be in two weeks.  While there Cheezy asked about two boxes which they didn’t have.

We went back to the house and she tracked them to the hostel 20 minutes later and we were ready to go back to the trail. We all loaded up in POD’s Prius, pretty impressive to have 4 hikers and packs all loaded up and ready to go.  We wound our way back up the highway and POD dropped us off at the store right where we were on Monday.  We said our goodbyes and then the 4 of us set off on the trail.

Cheezy, Zippy Morroco, and Buttercup use the mountain sighter to name peaks

We climbed along the ridge by the ski slopes along the way we stopped and looked at the views and enjoyed the walk on a snow-free trail.  At 3 pm we had already hiked 8 miles, not bad since we started at 11:30 am.  We agreed to go another 10 miles, so Buttercup and Zippy took off leaving Cheezy and me to our own pace and remainder of the day.

The sign read bridge out but we used it just the same

The two of us walked down through the forest and by Boss Lake, we then crossed a closed bridge over the Arkansas River and then started the long ascent up to chalk pass.  The pass is at 12,300′ or so and we were at 10,500′ a pretty good haul.  We walked on a  dirt road for 3 miles before hitting the trail.  From the trailhead, it was 1.8 miles to the pass and 1000′ of elevation. Little did we know most of the elevation would come in the last 3/4 of a mile.  We ground up to the pass and then took a 5-minute break to eat a bar and catch our breath.  We scouted out our route below and set off.

Charing is caring, I share my UGO Bars with my hiking partners to keep us going up trail

The two lakes were frozen but very cool to see.  Then after a little slugging through snow and running water we came to a trailhead and there waiting was Buttercup and Zippy.  The 4 of us strolled down the trail and found a nice camp, which just happened to be a cabin being constructed in the high mountains.  since the door was unlocked and the surrounding area was covered in snow we decided to be hobo’s and crash in the place.

As we were getting settled in Buttercup had a sinking moment, his tent was gone.  Somehow it ad falling off his pack without realizing it.  He asked if either of us had seen in on the trail, but alas we had not.  He left and walked a mile or so back on the trail hoping to find it, but to no avail.  With no tent, his options for staying warm and dry going forward means he will have to share a tent with one of us until his shelter is either found by other hikers or he can replace it.

Miles hiked 0

Tthe older sister I never had growing up, POD is one of the biggest badasses in the hiking world

We spent two wonderful days in the town of Salida, CO.  A real bonus was my good friends Disco and Pod of the famous podcast The Trail Show now live there and we’re kind enough to host me and Cheezy, the boys slept down the street 4 blocks away at the hostel.

Big John rolled into town late on Tuesday, he had hitched up from Lake City to celebrate my 39th birthday and catch up with us.  We finally got him to go see a doctor during our time and he did, in fact, have a bacterial infection that should be better in a few days.

A light lunch of tacos for my birthday

Our first day in town was spent visiting the outfitter I got a new stove for me so I don’t have any more accidents while cooking.  We also had some great food, sorted gear, sent some gear home and generally hung out and relaxed.
The next day was my birthday, 20 years ago I turned 19 in the town of Port Clinton, Pa while hiking the AT.  I drank homemade wine from a local and hung out with trail friends.  39 was pretty spectacular we ate wonderful baked goods at the Dawn Cafe, tacos at Poco’s, saw a funny movie at the cinema (a real treat while on the trail), and best of all I had an hour massage.

A gift from Buttercup a handmade CDT necklace

For dinner POD and Disco made some great BBQ, a salad and for my birthday dessert we had ice cream Sunday’s.  I’ll always remember turning 39 as my time in Salida was a great experience spent in the company of wonderful friends.

CDT mile 843.5, miles hiked 19

In between storms for the day

I had an accident today, as I was getting things ready in my tent when I knocked my alcohol stove over and burned a hole in my tent.  1. I know better than to cook in my tent and 2., I am lucky I didn’t set the whole damn thing aflame.  After cleaning up the mess and patching the hole with some Tenacious Tape I was packed up and Cheezy and I set off on our way to Monarch Pass to catch Zippy and Buttercup.

Post-holing my way up a slope

As we started our climb we hit some snow, it was more patchy than the entire way but it still took some time to posthole through.  We made it to the top of our first big climb and as we were navigating our way through the snow, the sky quickly darkened and the thunder began.  Minutes later we were dropping down into the forest and getting pelted by hail.  The lightning was getting close 10 seconds, 5 seconds, then it was right on us.  I quickly pitched my MLD Duomid and the two us sat out the storm snacking on bars and waiting for it to pass.

A quick selfie and a rare blue sky

We loaded back up and descended the snow-choked forest.  We eventually made it to a snow-free jeep road that we walked down to Marshall Pass where the boys had slept the night before.  The sky had cleared mostly but we texted our friend POD to get a weather forecast, thunderstorms after 3 pm, and we were not making good time.  Cheezy and I weighed our options and agreed the best thing to do was to give it a go and if needed take a bailout on a low route.

This little storm shelter saved our bacon during a storm

We stated up the climb and once again were in the snow, the miles came slow but we trudged uphill.  We made the ridge and set a bearing cross-country to the saddle, ever vigilant about the weather.  When we made the saddle the sky once again started with the light show and thunder booms, luckily there was an emergency storm shelter that we were able to go sit in.  As the storm dismiss thing we had a nice hot lunch and black tea with milk.  It was just what we needed.  The storms passed and even though we had to hike a ridge the next 6 miles and storms were expected later, after seeing the sky and what was coming we said, “let’s go for it”.

Cheezy on Monarch Crest, what a great hiking partner, one who just tells, “go for it!”

The climb out was all snow with post-holing to our crotch but we slowly walked uphill to a clear patch and finished the climb to the ridge. Once up we saw our path for miles it was mostly snow free, or snow avoidable by walking up around it.  For the next few hours, we would walk the divide and try to stay as high as possible. We ran into two mountain bikers who said to expect lots of snow and not were they right.  It seems no matter if we are on a north, south, east or west face we have snow of some sort still to deal with. As we walked we commented on how long the day was taking, generally, 19 miles could be done by 3 pm but today it took all the time we had.

We were on the ridge when off in the distance we saw a huge bolt of lightning hit a mountain we counted 16 seconds and it was moving our way. We dropped down a few 100′ into some trees, dropped our packs and spread out away from each other on our foam pads.  The reason we spread out is in case one of us gets hit the other can take care of them.  We sat there with hail pelting us and the storm passing overhead.  15 minutes later we decided it was safe to get going so we started off on our final leg.

Staying on the actual divide gave us some snow-free miles, Photo by Cheezy

The trail was still full of snow, my legs were getting tired from constantly lifting them from the post holes but then it happened we hit a jeep road and in a few 100′ the snow let up and we were on dirt.  As we walked the last mile Cheezy said she hoped an RV was parked at the trailhead making her a nice pasta dinner, I said I couldn’t wait to have a cold beer.  A couple of hundred feet later and there was a note on a tree from fellow hiker Goosebumps and in a small snow patch was a 30 pack of Pabst Blue Ribbon.  We each grabbed a beer and cheers, as we walked the last 1/2 mile drinking a beer we were giddy with delight.  Cheezy said it was the best beer she had ever had, I guess the best ones are the ones you earn, because most Germans would never say a Pabst is a beer, yet alone the best one they have ever had.

Nothing like an ice cold, hard-earned beer

We made it to the Monarch Pass store as they were closing, Buttercup and Zippy left us a note that they had gone to town, but to our surprise, they had only made it there two hours before us.  We walked out to the highway to hitch the 23 miles to town, just as Cheezy had predicted the 3rd vehicle we saw stopped to give us a lift, a sweet old Ford conversion van driven by a girl with dreadlocks and her beau.

They folks dropped us off at Disco and POD’s new place in Salida, CO.  They stuffed us full of good beers, burgers, and a homemade pie that was to die for.  Buttercup and Zippy joined us and they told us of their night at the cabin and getting there at dark.  I wrapped up the day with a hot shower and crawled into a soft bed.  The miles did not come easy today and at times we felt lie asking “are we there yet”, but in the end it was a very rewarding day and I am happy we arrived safe and sound despite the weather.

A rainbow was fitting end to a long day

CDT mile 824.5, miles hiked 27.9

Nothing says summer like a good hail storm

We awoke next to the highway the trucks grinding up the pass, these were not the typical nature sounds I am used to waking to. I made coffee and packed up, then the 4 of us set off for our uphill grind.

I met Buttercup at the top of the ridge a couple of hours later he was out of water and said let’s meet and break in 6 miles.  I ran to the restroom and by the time I was done everyone got ahead.  I pushed hard up and down the hills making my miles and eventually met everyone at Razor Creek.  We all spread out our gear to dry from the previous night’s condensation.  Buttercup and Zippy started reading what was ahead and the saw a cabin in another 25miles open to the public, making for a 35-mile day.

Storms and snow are the new normal for us

Cheezy and I wished the boys well on their long hike and all agreed to meet tomorrow at Monarch Pass, as neither Cheezy or me wanted to do that many miles.  We packed up and left about 20 minutes after them, the day’s terrain was a roller coaster, as we made one of our climbs the sky darkened and the thunder boomed a few minutes later we got hit with hail for a bit, it came down so hard it turned the ground white.  We hiked through it and eventually as it ended we had 4 dirt bikes come down the trail and pass us.  The Colorado Trail allows dirt bikes in places so we watched as the 4 bikers rode by and then joked how that was, hiking for lazy Americans.

the only way to stay warm during a hail storm is to keep hiking, photo by Cheezy

We continued on and throughout the day had some rain showers, we came to our destination at 5:45, it being too early to stop we decided to push on up the next ridge to make tomorrow’s hike a bit shorter.  We finally found a nice flat spot in the woods and set to making camp and a small fire. A nice hot meal and fireside chat was a great way to end the day.  Tomorrow we should make Monarch Pass and go to Salida to see POD and Disco.  On the 15th we’ll celebrate my 39th year on earth and soak in hot springs and eat pie….it’s a tough life but someone has to do it, I’m just glad it’s me!

Testing out pads for Snorkel’s upcoming article and man do I love the Exped