Day 89 Pushing it to the limit
CDT mile 1376.5, miles hiked 38
The leftovers on the way to Rawlins
I woke up in the night a few times, once to see the wild ponies right in camp by Maverick’s tent eating grass and the again when I rolled over. The Milky Way was as vivid as ever and so close I felt like I was in space. The only problem with cowboy camping is waking up and staying up too much star gazing, but I’ll sleep when I get home until then I’ll enjoy the stars. When my alarm rolled I woke up to a frozen sleeping a bag, water, and gear. I am shocked that I the desert in July it is still getting below freezing at night.
Thank god for my CDTC Mont-bell umbrella, buy yours at CDTC’s website
We all looked at the water and saw there wasn’t a lot for the next stretch. We also consulted the maps and saw a J Ley purple route that would save us 15 miles and walk the road. There was a reservoir in 25 miles so we all figured we would fill up there. We each loaded what we needed for me that was 4 liters of water about 8lbs of weight. We set off in the cold air knowing soon it would be hot. There were a few miles on the trail before we hit the road, the whole way we kept seeing tons of antelope in the distance. We finally hit the road and in a mule saw a sign that read Rawlins 34 miles. We joked about going to the town that day but figured we would fill at the reservior and camp out on the trail.
The Basin off in the distance soon to be our walking ground
For the next many hours we walked the road, gravel tricks blew by us along with many a pickup truck towing either ATV’s or horses. No one stopped and offered a drink, I stated that if we had been in NM we would be drunk by now because the ranchers there always stopped and gave us all beers when they saw us on a road walk. We kept walking and stopped at 11:30 for a lunch break in the bright sun. I was using my umbrella to make shade, God I love that thing. I also found an American Flag balloon and put it on my pack so all could see.
As we rolled down the road again after lunch a car pulled over and the guy asked if wanted cold water? Of course, we did, we stood there in the sun chugging a few bottles of ice cold water and listened to his story of being a reformed gambler, and now a semi-retired dad traveling around the US when he can. We thanked him as he drove away. 30 minutes later a truck pulling a camper asked if we wanted some cold drinks, and they produced 3 Gatorades, and then handed to me, the last in line for a drink, a 2qt bottle of mango tango smoothie by Odwalla. Holy cramp what a treat it was thick, rich and ice cold.
We chugged the icy wonders and walked on, finally, I had to poop and the only split was down a ditch, luckily no traffic came by and I carried on. I saw the reservoir in the distance and immediately knew it was no good. All the water in the area was Alkali and saline nasty water that will make you sick and give you the runs. We opted not to drink that water. Smelly Jesus was there with Buttercup and Cheezy he too was heading to town with the water he had and we all decided that was the thing to do. So now we had done 25 miles and decided what the hell let’s do another 13.
Now for me and buttercup doing 38 miles is nothing new but for Cheezy and Maverick, it would be their highest mileage day. We all set off as a group and once again yogied water from a passerby. A mile up the way we saw Snapshot, he was waiting for a guy to come give him a ride so he gave us his water and each us now with 2 liters knew we could make Rawlins.
We hit pavement 10 miles from town and in two miles sat down to take our last break. My feet were tired and I was sore but I was also giddy to do a big day. I rubbed some pain salve on my ankle and foot, ate a bar, 5 energy chews and took a Vicodin to dull the pain. When the break was over we agreed to meet in town, I would walk with Buttercup and Cheezy and Maverick would walk together.
I was in front, I plugged in some music, been listening to lots of Pearl Jam lately and started to mash the miles like my mom mashes taters at Thanksgiving. As I strolled along the sun dipped low and the temps cooled. The miles went by fast and next thing I knew I was standing under I-70 waiting for Buttercup. We walked through town together and found the Thai restaurant. Thai food in Wyoming what treat and a nice change of food for us. We sat down ordered up food and drinks and waited for the others.
Rawlins, WY is one of the windest spots in the state and a major corss roads for the intertstate system
An hour later right before the kitchen closed at 9 pm Maverick and Cheezy walked in the restaurant and we all celebrated their achievement. Cheesy broke down in tears from the exhaustion and we had to get it on video of course. She composed herself and enjoyed a lege meal of Thai food. A quick cab ride brought us to the Days Inn where we got the hiker rate and then showered and passed out.
Cheezy and Maverick elated and exhausted
We will now prepare for the great divide basin and the wonder that the red desert will bring us.
Day 87, Encampment, WY
CDT mile 1312.9 miles hiked 8.2
Frost on summer grass what a wild cold summer it has been
It was cold again this morning, so cold that we had frost on the ground and frozen tarns and puddles along the trail. The trail was gentle today with easy ups and downs. The terrain we walked across was marshy and wet, often with thick mud and peat. With each step, we tried to dodge having wet shoes but eventually, we said forget it and plodded through.
Cheezy leads the way to town through a marsh
Cheezy led the way today we want her to get comfortable leading us along the trail so that when we enter grizzly country in a couple of weeks she can not feel pushed and be confident that her pace is working for us. She did a great job of navigating even though the marshy lands were not so easy to pick a line through. She does forget that her stride and Maverick’s stride are both longer than mine, so what they can easily cross is more of a large jump for me.
Killing time while waiting for cars to come up the pass, 3 cars in an hour, not good odds for hitching
We made good time and hit the road around 9am. I changed into my hitch clothes: a pair of rain pants and a ballcap. We strolled down to Battle Pass and tried hitching. In 1 hour 3 cars passed us and not one would stop. We finally got a cell signal and called the hotel, the owner said, “I’ll come get you,” and 20 minutes later I was in his mini van going down to Encampment.
Now Encampment isn’t much; an old mining museum, a bar and grill, thrift store, Post Office, and a few homes. The town is going through a bust since the price of copper sent the mine out of business and the price of lumber is down. The people in town are friendly though and made us feel welcome.
Cool art in the hardware store
We spent our short time in town doing the usuall task: post office, eating, resupply, eating, laundry and of course more eating. We reunited with Buttercup who had been here for 5 days and in the morning we’ll hike out together.
The town history
Day 86 We’re Halfway There
CDT mile 1304.7 miles hiked 27
Taking a rest at the border
The wind howled all night long and a cold front blew in with it. When I woke up I could see my breathe it was so cold. We all laid in our tents waiting for the first person to make noise forcing the rest of us to get up. Finally at 5:15 I heard Cheezy stir next door and I knew it was time to get going.
Walking the old road to Wyoming with a special treat for the SOBO’s
We took off into a stiff breeze and walked through marshes and meadows along an old jeep road. We passed everyone’s camps and were the first out as usual. At about 8 am I saw Fixit and his wife taking a break by the side of the trail in the morning sun, we exchanged hellos and then we kept going. A few miles later and we ran into Cricket and Dan, a couple we met in Grand Lake who are riding mules the entire length of the CDT in Colorado. They were just fresh out on the trail and it was only their second morning, but all seemed to be doing well. We hung for a while but the pull of Wyoming was too much of a draw so we carried on.
Cricket and her husband Dan are riding SOBO through Colorado
About 3 miles from the border I found a Colorado license plate laying off to the side, I picked it up and put it on my pack. I remember reading on my J Ley Map that there was a Wyoming state line sign but no Colorado so I figured we would give our SOBO brethren a welcome to the state.
It’s not Leave No Trace, but the SOBO’s deserve a sign like we had at the border
We hiked on each mile closer talking and reflecting about Colorado: how long it took, how hard it was, the snow, the mountain towns, the wonderful food, amazing trail magic, and seeing friends.
Finally, as we walked down an old path we saw it, the white state line sign an our next milestone, halfway done the CDT. Needless to say we whooped it up and took many a photo. We then crossed over to Wyoming, sat down and ate lunch.
Team Colorado celebrates actually making it out of the state alive.
The trail changed drastically in Wyoming. For the first bit, we immediately walked into marshes and over blowdowns. Then we finally came to a forest service road and decided to walk on that to where they trail met back up to avoid a large number of blowdowns. We made good time on the road and came to pipeline trailhead.
Once there it was 3pm and we had already gone 21 miles, so we ate and took a short nap.
After the nap time, we got up and ate, our last major uphill until we hit town. Cheezy was feeling a bit dizzy today so we put her up front and let her set the pace and where we would end the day. She did a great job leading us up Red Bluff Mountain and then across its top. Their are still a few snow patches about, Wyoming apparently didn’t get the memo about no more snow after Colorado. We finally stopped early by a creek, it’s 8 miles to hwy 70 where we will hitch to Encampment and be reunited with Buttercup. We enjoyed an early night and took advantage of the extra time by stretching, washing and enjoying our new state. Colorado was toughie and I am sure Wyoming will be no cake walk but I am excited to see what the second half of the journey has in store for me.
Halfway to Canada baby!
Day 85…..Allbad
Warming this post is not pretty but it was written honestly and frankly after a very stressful experience on trail.
CDT mile 1277.7, Miles hiked 29
The last high point of Colorado
When I woke up at 5 am as per usual I lit my stove and got to packing. Stop N Go (SNG) came over and informed me he was sleeping in and wanted to hike this section by himself, finally the universe answered my calls for help. I got everything dialed in and went over to start the hike with maverick and cheesy. I felt some joy knowing my stress of being around someone I didn’t care for was finally over, frankly ever since he wanted to hike with us at twin lakes a few weeks ago he has stressed me out.
We climbed up gradually to some of the most remarkable meadows we have seen so far. Wildflowers interspersed with high alpine lakes and giant granite peaks. The Zirkel’s were an amazing treat and a great way to say goodbye to Colorado. For once I enjoyed the high alpine without feeling like I was short of breathe I guess I have finally acclimated right in time to leave the state.
The Zirkels were more like the Sierra than Colorado
The miles came quickly and the three of us posed for a group shot at the last high point in the state, no longer would we climb to 11,800′ or more. As I was rather enjoying my morning my day was quickly soured when SNG crested a hill and passed us, wait, isn’t he sleeping in and hiking alone? Oh well, he passed us, so the three of us took a break behind a grove of trees and cooked up some beans for lunch.
We started our descent to the river valley below and we found SNG sitting in the meadow, as we tried to pass he asked, “is there a greyhound in Rawlins? I think I want to stop hiking the CDT and go hike the PCT in Washinton again”. Now quitting isn’t easy for anyone so we all said he should think on it and give it some time before we could escape though he was behind us with his pack on and going on and on about what he should do. Maverick and I turned up the pace and trotted away leaving poor Cheezy to deal with him.
The morning view from my tent
When I took my next break we sat by a stream eating. He, of course, plopped down and started again about Washington and leaving the trail. Now when you are around 3 other hikers who have been giving the CDT their all this type of negativity can be like cancer. I tried to ignore him as best I could and then pushed everyone to get going. I really wanted to hike a 30 today if not even more.
Mt Zirkel wilderness was amazing
We had decided to stop at the creek at mile 25.6 and take a long break, coo, and then hike the remaining 5 or more miles. I made it there first and got to cooking right away, the others arrived and then SNG plopped down In front of us and in his is whiny voice said, “so we have to go 30 today?” That is when it happened the blood rushed to my head, my temper and my words bypassed my filter and out it came.
” for the love of God will you please stop with your constant bitching and moaning. I thought i made it clear in Grand Lake that you drive me up a wall and I don’t care to be around you. If you are going to hike around us then either be positive or piss off. You are like a child who doesn’t get his way and frankly you are negatively impacting my experience”. Finally it was out in the open.
Maverick stepped in before things got too heated and mediated the conversation from there. SNG told me I was the most type A hiker he had ever met, my response was that was why I was successful in life and being type A had severed me well. After a few more minutes of maverick helping smooth things out we agreed to not hike together so SNG took off and we waited an hour or so to leave.
I do feel a bit bad as we hiked the last few miles, I hate kicking someone when they are down. However after weeks of being subtle one time being blunt, and feeling like I was being stalked by him it was time to lay the cards on the table. I hate that the jerk side of me had to come out on the trail, but life is too short and I have waited way too long in life to hike around someone who makes a visceral response inside me. Hopefully, he can find someone to hike with but lord knows that will not be us.
On our way to Wyoming
I am now perched on top of a hill watching hundreds of mosquitos trying to get in through my mesh. We are 14.1 miles to Wyoming so tomorrow will finally mark the end of our Colorado of odyssey and hopefully our travel through snow.
Day 84, On our way to Wyoming
CDT mile 1248.6, miles hiked 22
Hot air balloon festival in Steamboat
We woke up and packed for the ride back to trail. Hollywood and Kale were going to ferry us and whoever was at Tickled Pink’s place across town back to the trail. Cheesy and I rode up with Hollywood and waited at the pass for Kale who had Maverick. When they pulled up in the front of Kale’s rig sat Stop N Go or the “San Fran Stalker” as I call him. I swear he is like a bad rash, no matter how hard we try we can’t get rid of this guy. The worst part is he drives me nuts, he is always whining and complaining. After years of traveling in the 3rd world, I have very little tolerance for privileged white children who whine about how hard a hike is when their are people who would kill for a mouth full of rice.
Meadow walking at its finest
The boys decided to slack us the mile and half up the highway so we got ready to do so. Right before we left the next crew of hikers showed up to head to town, just ahead of the bubble as I like it.
Once we met back with Kale and got our packs we started on the trail. The trail today climbed slightly really it seems flat but each step gained a slight bit of elevation.
Lakes mean bugs, but man they are a nice pretty place to enjoy a view
We passed by lakes, and many wonderful meadows. The only downside is the mosquito season is in full effect and our day was spent walking through clouds of bugs. As the day dragged on all of us got sluggish from town but amazingly still made 3mph. The stalker could not be shaken but when he heard we planned on doing 30’s to Encampment I think he realized today would be the only day with us.
After consulting a map we decided to forgo camping by the lake and instead climbing to the high point before it to try to avoid the bugs. The highs spot was as buggy as the rest of the day. I threw up my tent and then tossed my pack in and followed behind.
I took the evening time to do some sewing on gear that needed it, then cooked dinner and sat in my safe haven from the biting little buggers. The only issue now is getting to go pee, the second the door opens and the bugs come in, oh well I’ll take the bugs over the snow we had, I think I’ll eat some chocolate and call it a night.
My evening view lately
Day 83, Hollywood
Miles hiked 0
Hollywood is the man, here he is sits telling me tales of his world travels
It’s pretty amazing to have a fellow hiker spend his day off acting as your personal tour guide and concierge in town. When we woke Hollywood rushed out and got bacon and eggs to make us breakfast. As he cooked for us we talked about the day and our game plan. Being his day off he said he would take us to town.
We loaded up and hit the town in a well-executed fashion; the post office for my box, the gear store for fuel canisters and deet, the dispensary for some CBD salve, a taco shop and then back to the casa. Hollywood was going back up the pass to look for hikers with his friend Kale who is also pct ’15. Kale came by and said he would buy us dinner at the restaurant he worked out that night. So Hollywood and he left but we had just a few hours to go get our food at the grocery store so Hollywood would be able to drive us up to Strawberry Hot Springs later.
Strawberry hot springs are one amazing stop and generally voted the #1 hot spring in CO.
We took the free bus to the city market, some guest of the resort were giving us some weird looks so I started to chat them up. In true fashion, within minutes they were ready to adopt me, what can I say people like me. We got our food and then I sat outside the city market and downed a pint of Ben and Jerrys like it was my job. We headed back and then loaded up for some hot spring fun.
Hollywood’s dog rhino was a sweet chill companion
Now since I got into Colorado everyone had told us to go to Strawberry Hot Springs, and after the drive up we worked out and the springs were worthy of the hype. Cool stone buildings, gentle paths to the pools and giant hot spring pools. We soaked in the hot water and took turns going into the cold pool to reset. A couple of hours and our aches and pains of walking through Colorado had gone away. We all decided we were ready to go eat, so we drove down to Oneil’s and enjoyed some of the best in America let alone the CDT.
Lamb poutine is amazing food for the hungry hiker
Kale hooked us up with lamb poutine, fresh Caesar salads and the most amazing Reuben I have ever eaten. The portions were huge and the ambiance was great. A young guy played music as we ate and as we slipped into food comas and consumed a few Guinness it was time to call it a day and get some sleep.
Day 82, The Divide Provides
CDT mile1228.6, Miles hiked 29.7
Cheezy walks by some blowdowns on an old road
Let’s just say trail magic happens in the most peculiar ways on the CDT. When we woke up an hour late from our long push into camp the night before we had all intentions of hiking 23 or so miles and then hiking in the 6-8 miles to Steamboat Springs on Friday.
We started out and at the first stream, we took a look of see why the water was for the day, no water for 31 miles, or basically Friday. That’s a long carry and one we don’t care for. We weighed options and saw a creek we would walk by on both a dirt road and the highway. Cheesy pointed out that we had an 11-mile pavement walk starting at 20.1 miles until we hit Rabbit Ears Pass where we would hitch a ride to steamboat springs.
The trail was gentle up an old road and then into a USFS road we would walk to the highway. Along the way, we passed a camp of folks who thought the best way to celebrate our freedom was to spend the better part of two hours lighting of rounds from their AR-15. The constant gunfire we listened to as we walked started an I teetering talk with cheesy about guns, and America’s fascination with them. Let’s just say I’m not giving mine up but I definitely have a new perspective on guns but more so how much we really don’t need them.
Cows are back in our world
After the gun camp we came to a valley and for the first time since leaving New Mexico w, were greeted by a herd of cows. The old familiar smell of rank cattle, fresh cow dung, and their constant stares let’s us know we were back in cattle country. We walked the valley road until we hit the pavement. We sat down on the side of the road to prepare for the road walk, it was 4pm so we figured let’s rock out the 9 miles to highway 40 then go to town. Right then a pick up pulled up and asked if we were hiking the CDT? Next thing we knew this nice fisherman was handing each of us an ice cold Pacifico, we sat in the hot sun and drank our ice cold brew, after that we hit the road.
Trail magic at its finest
3.5 miles later as we walked the busy a highway a Suburban and then a Subaru pulled over in a wide spot. The two drivers got out and one said to me. ” we are looking for you”, we walked over and I asked one so I know you and he said, “I’m Hollywood and you’re Allgood the guy who made us pancakes at PCT Days last year.” There in the flesh was Wrangler and Hollywood, PCT alumni of 2015 who I had fed at PCT Days last year. They had come out seeking hikers to trail magic.
Enjoying a slack pack on pavement
We sat at their rigs drinking beer and Arnold Palmers, we ate chips and fruit and then they said, “so you want to go to town?” Of course but first, we needed to connect our steps to highway 40, so they took our packs, we each grabbed water and started on our way pounding the 6 miles to the highway. Two miles from the end and the mosquitos came out in full force and started eating us alive, we pushed as fast as we could but alas the skeeters won, bastards! When we hit the junction the two guys had chairs waiting for us and hot dogs cooking on a camp stove. 3 hotdogs and one beer later and all of us were on the highway to steamboat springs.
Hot dogs and cold brews make a 29.7 mile day worth it, From Left to Right Hollywood, Allgood, and Maverick
Hollywood works at the resort and lives in a sweet apartment with his dog Rhino at One Steamboat Place a very posh condo place at the heart of the resort. He offered us a free place to stay with him so of course, we jumped at the opportunity. We enjoyed a German dinner of schnitzel and spätzle and then turned in for the night.
From left to right Wrangler PCT ’15, Allgood and Hollywood PCT ’15
