Day 12, Doc Campbell’s and Hot Springs
CDT mile 189.0 miles hiked 8.5
Breakfast in bed courtesy of Backpackers Pantry
Bandit, Buttercup and I slept in a wee bit this morning and awoke at 6 am. We all lounged in our bags, made coffee and oatmeal and waited for the sun to rise before we had to cross the river 28 more times before making it to Doc Campbell’s.
We set off and about 100 yards before being greeted to our first wade, it was cold but manageable. As we walked on each crossing numbed us just enough to make every little grass along the way feel like it was whipping your shins. We carried on and at one crossing found Zorro, a great guy from Spain who hiked the PCT in 2010, who had walked by us somehow last night.
my old nemesis poison ivy was found all along the trail
We all carried on and finally, the sun poked out from the canyon rim and we all stood to bask in the light. I think for all of us it was the first time we were wishing it would get sunny and warm on trail. We stopped, ate a snack and put on some sunblock.
We spent then rest of the morning marveling at the size of the cottonwood and sycamore trees in the canyon, one last crossing and we were at the bridge and highway 15 our road to Doc Campbell’s.
Giant Old Growth Sycamores and Cottonwoods can be found in the canyon
Ahhh Doc Campbell’s is everything I love about long distance hiking resupply and bit off the beaten path. The owners are friendly, their ice cream is home made and the inside is a slice of Americana. We inquired of our boxes and they showed us where they were at. 74 hiker boxes of various shapes and sizes awaited us. I quickly found mine and Big John’s thanks to our special duct tape corners. There staring me in the face was my gummy bears and 7 days of food I had packed.
I sat on the porch sorting my box and sharing chocolate with some fellow hikers, thanks again Salazon! We all enjoyed getting online for a bit, charging devices and sitting at a picnic table. Oh and the bathroom at Doc’s is awesome they use hot spring water so when you sit on the can you get a heated toilet seat, just brilliant.
A tin high five for another stop made
We loaded up our goods and walked a 1/4 mile back to where we came from to camp at Gila Hot Springs Campground. For $6 you get a camping spot and 24 hour access to 3 different soaking pools. We met the owner Alan who is a super cool guy, we dropped our packs at the reserved CDT hiker site and immediately got to soaking.
Maybe the best trail stop ever!
The water was hot and inviting I seeped myself for 3 hours until I was so pruned up I couldn’t take it anymore. We met a nice guy from Colorado who gave us trail magic in the form of a kielbasa and trail mix. We cooked up a tinfoil dinner of potatoes, onions sausage and hot dogs a true hobo treat.
It was a great day of easy hiking and well deserved rest.
Day 11, Hello Gila
CDT Mile 180.5, miles hiked 20
I awoke at 5 am, made coffee, packed up and decided to head out a bit early so I could be by myself for a bit. I walked by where the others were camped I saw a headlamp and Greg in Wild had his tent lights on. So I figured everyone was getting ready to go too.
I ascended through the dark but the moonlight is still bright enough to illuminate the forest good thing since my petzl e-lite is not the greatest for night hiking. I made it to the alternate junction where CDT hikers can decide if they want to hike the Black Range or take the Gila River alternate that takes you up through the Gila River Canyon.
I walked down the trail and made breakfast, it was super cold so I put on all my clothes and still shivering pulled out my Katabatic quilt and crawled into it while I ate. I waited for nearly 45 minutes but not one of the boys showed up. I finally couldn’t wait any longer so I packed up and headed out.
The trail descended through sheep canyon and eventually dumped me out at the Gila River, finally a free-flowing river after so much sand and desert. I spotted a gravel bar and had a full on yard sale. I made up some lunch, washed my shirt so the salt in it would stop chaffing my nipples and even took a nap. 2 hours later and still no one had caught me, I figured I was on my own to Doc Campbell’s so I packed up and started the Gila walk.
the descent to the Gila took me through fields and forest
This section of trail is famous for its river crossings and while I expected to be in the water I wasn’t expecting it to be such a bushwhack between the crossings. I made my way along the river a few miles and the had to drop the kids off at the pool, so to speak. As I was finishing up I spotted Buttercup, Bandit, and Zorro and gave a shout out. They informed me that Sweet Potato was ill and had puked all night. Freefall stayed back in camp with him and Greg in Wild and Big John were going to slow down the mileage a bit and adjust their plans. So it was just us now.
We traveled along the Gila Canyon each turn revealing a new rock face, old cave dwelling, and ford that we would negotiate. It was a lovely walk until the wind picked up. As we exited the river late in the day we were chilled as a strong wind evaporated the water from our legs. Finally at 6 pm after hiking 20 miles we found a camp and settled in for the night.
In the morning we only have to hike 8 miles and cross the Gila 23 more times to make Doc Campbell’s where we will resupply, eat ice cream and soak in hot springs, I can’t wait to soak these weary bones.
The Gila River a magical place
Day 10, Sluggish out of Silver City
CDT mile 160.5 miles hiked 17.5
the boys walking the roads out of town
Town is always a vortex and pulling one’s self away from the comforts of fresh food, beer, a soft bed, flush toilet, etc…is never easy to do.
We all regrouped at Nancy’s Cafe in the morning for a hearty breakfast before we headed out. A last-minute trip to the Post Office to send off items ahead and then a visit to the visitors center. The visitors center in Silver City is a wonderful place and Rebecca and her staff are top-notch and hiker friendly, please be polite and help keep the place clean so all of the future hikers will have the same hospitality.
The walk out of town takes you along a road for about 8 miles, it wasn’t the best or worse road I have walked and we gained a bit of elevation, but frankly, it seemed to go by quickly. We left the pavement for the dirt, dirt road that is- We are doing the Gila River alternate so our path took us along forest service roads, by an old mining operation and then up into the mountains.
All of us were moving slowly coming out of town we all felt sluggish from days of lounging and eating mass quantities of food. As we worked our way up we started to hike by amazing rock outcroppings and passed the Devils Garden, funny almost every place I have hiked has had a devils garden or similar devil name somewhere along the way.
Allgood and Freefall at the start of Devils Garden
We finally made our way to water and right around the 17.5-mile mark. We were beaten and all we wanted to do was get some h2o, cook and pass out. Unfortunately, we had to get water and walk a few tenths of a mile to find a suitable camp.
I was the last one to make camp and I was exhausted. I went to the only flat area where everyone was camping and it was by Sweet Potato as I was getting ready to drop my pack and relax he informed me I couldn’t camp there because I might snore and disturb him. To say it pissed me off was an understand statement. I rolled my eyes and set off to find a flat spot so I wouldn’t disturb the princess and the pea. After crossing the trail I was still not finding a flat spot. Finally, I climbed up some rocks and there found a nice spot tucked in between rocks and trees to make camp.
I was far from the group but my nerves were shot and I just wanted to be left alone after that incident so I made camp, cooked dinner and fell fast asleep for the night.
A barrel cactus in full bloom
Day 9, Silver City Burger Review
Miles hiked 0
The winner and champion Elk Green Chili Burger
The town of Silver City has always treated me well; friendly people, good food, and a welcome feeling from all the people that I have met there the past couple of years. My zero-day included watching Sweet Potato get his hair and beard cut and the barber refusing payment. A wonderful home cooked meal at Raul’s place by his wife Billie…she made an awesome lasagna in the dago’s honor and even had a salad and garlic bread. I visited the friendly shops along downtown and learned more of the history….but enough with that let’s get down to the fact that in 36 hours I ate 3 different green chili burgers and it’s time for my fat kid review.
The hikers and our host Raul
Burger #1 Jalisco Restaurant green chili Angus burger.
While the price was right and I did eat it after hiking 17 miles into town that morning this burger comes in at 3rd place. The fries were crispy and good and the chilis were plenty hot but I was slightly underwhelmed by the bun and the pattie was too well done to my liking. I was shocked though because the other meals I have eaten here were fantastic my suggestion if going to Jalisco order a Mexican dish, not the burger.
Burger #2 The Buckhorn Saloon– Buckhorn Burger with haystack on the side.
While technically in the hamlet of Pinos Altos this old fashion and true blue gunslinger saloon is not to be missed. Besides the amazing old building, great decor and historical photos their food is damn good. I opted for the Buckhorn Burger, a 1/2lb of cooked to perfection beef and smothered in green chilies and cheese. The fresh bun, ample topping and juicy meat land this burger in my number 2 spot.
You must visit the Buckhorn Saloon if you love the wild west
Burger #3 Elk Burger with green chilies-The Curious Kumquat (the restaurant is now closed).
I have been told many times to make sure I eat at this place and try the elk burger, boy was everyone right. The meat was cooked to order, the bun was ample and fresh, the toppings of the highest quality and the taste-well it was as close to a religious experience I have had in awhile. If you can get there before June 4th do so, the restaurant is closing then and this delightful burger will all just be a distant memory. This as by far the best burger I ate in Silver City, hell it’s the best burgers I have eaten in years.
Day 8, Silver City Redux
CDT Mile 142.2, Miles Hiked 17.6
When my alarm sounded at 4 am I rolled over to hit snooze and then took stock of my water bag, damn it only 1.5 liters I just couldn’t help but sip away last night every time I rolled over and had parched mouth. Tomato has been telling me for years to kick my water addiction but as hard as I try I just can’t give it up. I started packing knowing it was time to roll before the heat started up.
Taking a dump along highway 90
Right as I was packing up my lower GI decided it was wide awake and in dire needs of relief. I scampered into the woods below barely able to get relief, man it was close, could have been a real crapper in more than one way. After rolling back to camp all that was left was Greg in Wild and I. We rocked out of camp and spent the next hour or so chatting about our careers and our time spent in Xuzhou China. Greg in Wild spent time there for Esco steel and I made plywood there in a previous job.
I finally got loosened up and started to pound out some miles, in the shadows I could see Buttercup and Sweet Potato hiking ahead of me so I turned on the gas and tried to catch up, finally they stopped at the Tyrone mine reclamation viewpoint and it was there that we found a water cache and a Gatorade to get us all refueled to town. A funny side story I went to dinner tonight in a neighboring town of Pinos Altos and met a nice young girl named Jamie who had actually left the water after her hike yesterday.
Road walking on highway 90
With water in our packs we set off onto highway 90 and the road I to Silver City. The CDT has many options and this was one of them, the “official” route goes an extra 24 miles out and around town and still ends at a road walk the old route which we did is shorter and follows the highway into town. This is a trail of, make your own adventure, and today I made mine on this road walk.
We kept to the road and only took one small break when we hit the toilet house, a home whose driveway is lined with many toilets, let’s say 25. Who knows why? Maybe he is a fecal falic maniac, or maybe he is a plumber hell maybe he is so into up-cycling we all just need to catch on ourselves. Anywho I digress, we stopped for many a photo opp, had a snack, put on sunblock and carried on.
Buttercup reliving himself on trail
We dropped into town and headed for the visitors center from 4:30 am to 9 am we had covered 17.6 miles not too shabby. We scooped up our boxes from the visitor center and then headed to The Palace Hotel.
The Palace Hotel the oldest hotel in Silver City
Upon check in we were informed of the breakfast hours 7-9:30, we had just missed it but the owner said if there was food out to help ourselves, it was gone however, so we went to our room. 3 minutes later the knock on the door said “boys the owner said if you are hungry to come with us to the kitchen and help yourselves.” Wo, what amazing hospitality especially since there was an ugly incident here with a drunk hiker during the kick off that could have jeopardized hiker relations going forward. We hit the fridge and sat down to sausage biscuits, hard-boiled eggs, cream cheese, coffee etc….
With full bellies we did town chores, hung out sorted gear and food and finally popped my giant blister which squirted like Old Faithful. After lounging and what not our friend Christy who works with CDTC as the gateway community liaison for Silver City came and got us to go celebrate her birthday.
We drove out-of-town to Pinos Altos a small community rich in history. We went to the Buckhorn Saloon and it was like stepping back in time. Animal skins on the walls , naked lady paintings from an 1865 whore house, the feel and smell was as if a gunslinger could walk through the door at anytime. We had some drinks and a great dinner and retired to the bar for some open mic and tiny hand photo fun.
Buttercup loves his cougars
Of all the places I have been yet this one was the coolest. I hope to come back and explore more of Pinos Altos after my hike. We came down the hill and got word that Freefall had pounded out the miles to make it to Silver City tonight. He is tucked into bed now and we never saw him but we did close down the Toad for good measure before residing to our surely haunted hotel.
The Toad brewery a hikers best friend and tasty beer too
Day 7, We Thought We Would be Alone Out Here
CDT mile marker 124.6 miles hiked 21
After a miserable night of sleep, constantly sliding downhill off my mat and being trapped in my bivy like a banana peel on a floor I awoke and packed.The weather was cool we are in the mountains now and we even climbed our first mountain and got over 7400′ the highest I have been since finishing the SHR last summer.
Getting higher and higher
A few highlights today were climbing a mountain, feeling for and keeping pace with a guy 20 years younger than me, the tiny hand meeting the lego lady snowboarder and enjoying a warm sausage cooked over a juniper fire.
Tiny hand and friends along the CDT
Now since we started there have been a tremendous amount of people around for CDT standards, right now since leaving Lordsburg, there are 12 of us playing leapfrog. There are basically 3 groups there is Shepperd from Australia, Spontaneous from Korea and Crunch Master from TN we have been hiking with around them and sharing water stops and the occasional camp since the border. They are a great group of guys and we often share some chuckles throughout the day.
Then there is the group of 3 women, Emma from England, Moni from Germany and Peg Leg who is from the states.
We often find ourselves all congregating a the water spots during the day, mainly this is because we all rely on the same life giving necessity water. We often wind up at water tanks and cow troughs at snack time and we swap some stories before hiking out in our respective groups.
Today we picked up a new member of our ragtag group, Bandit we met him at kickoff and he is a great guy who is super chill and has a great pace. I have enjoyed hiking with him but what I enjoyed ore was watching make his lunch. In true hiker fashion, he took a bagel covered it with cream cheese, then slices of summer sausage, cheese it’s, sriracha, olive oil and…..man any hiker would be proud to call that lunch.
Buttercup loves his sausage
One other thought before I pass out, you see we have a 17-mile road walk to town and we all have roughly 2 liters of water or less than that each so we are leaving at 4:30 am to beat the heat. Myself, Bandit and Crunch Master all share a similar bond that not many do the three of us each hiked the AT right after high school at the age of 18. While there may be close to 20 years difference in age than me and Crunch Master that one thing gives us a connection many will never comprehend, leaving home to walk for months at such an age changes you for life.
So while I expected to see very few hikers on the CDT, we are taking in stride the fact that there is this bubble of hikers and getting to know each other yet camping on our own to help preserve each other’s experience.
Well off to sleep I go, lots of being thirsty in my future tomorrow
Day 6, 100 Miles and Rolling
CDT mile 105.6 miles hiked 20
Tthe tiny hand is always r ready to get us over the barbed wire
We woke in our general early fashion and met in the lobby at 6 am as agreed upon. We ate a quick hotel breakfast and set out but not before parting ways with Freefall. It was a bit sad but I knew we would see him in a few days when we regroup in Silver City. The walk out of town started with a short 3-mile road walk before we set out cross country across what would be our last hot flat desert stretch. We found a pile of cow bones and made costumes from them and had a good chuckle before we set off again. We spotted a rattlesnake who coiled into strike position and mad some noise that was our third one so far.
cattle bone make for some great costumes
A couple miles later we caught up the Shepperd who had spent the previous night outside of town on this flat area, he told us of the storm that he endured the previous evening. I hiked a few miles on with Shepperd and Buttercup an Aussie a German and Dago quite the combo, as we climbed up the old dirt road that was now our trail we jumped at the now familiar sound of a rattler. We stopped and spotted him under a bush ready to strike I took a quick video and then moved on. Thank god the one here rattle, the way I get lost in my head I might just step on one of they were quite.
We had our hiking groove on and spotted a grove of trees, we flipped down in the cow dung to have lunch, 13 miles by noon a good day.
The weather was a bit cooler with cloud cover and a nice breeze a perfect day. We all carried onto the next water we were told to do this by Radar back Lordsburg as the co-op water source was not to be missed and man was it great. Trees with shade, an old windmill and a solar pump and two tanks. The water was great and we sat there for a bit longer before wrapping up the day with a 4 mile leg that including a climb to our current camp.
Buttercup just had to climb the windmill
100-mile mark, from left to right Allgood, Sweet Potato, and Buttercup
Today was a great day we hiked with Shepperd and got to know him better, enjoyed a cool breeze all day and celebrated our foray into triple digits. A 100+ miles down and many more to go.
