Day 5, Town F@&! Day
CDT Mile 85.8, miles hiked 11.2
A prickly pear cactus in full bloom along the divide
I woke up to Big John calling my name, jeez it was only 4:45 and he already had his gear on and was ready to roll. I said bye and I would catch up, Buttercup, and Sweet Potato both rolled out with me, we walked the road for miles and I stopped to pull off some layers and they pulled ahead. All of us walked past the Last Chance Well and kept to the road, whoops I soon realized my folly and as the boys disappeared over a hill I plotted my line back to the CDT. A few cross-country miles later and I walked up to the last water cache box and found Spontaneous, Crunch Master and Sheppard there eating a snack, we have all been hiking around each other since day 1.
Enjoying a bit of chocolate on trail with hiking partners is just one of our daily treats
I got back on the trail and found Big John ahead we stopped, chatted and hiked a few miles together, it was fun cutting through the hills watching town get ever closer. The weather was cool so we pushed on ate some chocolate and agreed to meet in town. I started on my way enjoying the views and the trail soon took me to two-lane dirt roads. Over the past few years others have whined about walking dirt roads but after the last few years of trips I have done I really appreciate a graded road when available, he’ll it’s basically and wide hiking trail.
As you get to town you are greeted by a cross on top of a hill and then below the town cemetery. I strode past both and hit the pavement and in a few minutes found myself back at the Econolodge, if you ever find yourself in Lordsburg I recommend the place they are super hiker friendly and have a well-stocked hiker box of items people toss after finally getting back from the border.
The rest of the day was typical town chores: laundry, resupply food, sort gear, etc…. I took a few minutes to sew my CDT patch into my pack and enjoyed a few meals at the local McDonald’s.
My least favorite town chore sorting food before our next leg
I got to call home and get caught up with Suzy, the hectic week she was having at work, the pets status report and what not. We miss each other like hell but we both enjoyed catching up and being connected. She is such a trooper through all this and hearing her giggle was even better than the 20 McNuggets I had eaten. We all rallied in Greg in Wild’s room and ate some good pizza, surprising if you saw the town, and came up with a game plan for the morning. Freefall informed us that he was taking an additional zero-day to ray his battered feet and he would meet us along the way in Silver City.
Epsom salt foot soaks were a treat in town
Big John and I went back to our room, enjoyed a Foster’s Lager and turned in, ahhhh bed how good you feel.
Day 4, “It Only Hurts When I’m not Hiking”
CDT mile 74.6, miles hiked 20
Sharing is caring and me and the crew share Salazon everyday
We woke as early as we could the full moon has been a blessing and a nightmare in the evenings. On one hand, it illuminates the surroundings with a wonderful glow but when you are cowboy camping it’s like having a high-pressure sodium security light shining on your face and keeping you awake.
After leaving camp we made quick time to the box, I was enjoying the peaceful morning and self meditation as I walked, so much so that when I saw the boys I turned on the after burners and passed them by. While hiking with others is nice it’s also a burden when you are looking for quite and solace of the mountains. The rest of the day I would often walk alone and enjoy the sounds of nature and the crunch of the ground under my feet.
Alone on the playa fueling up with a UGO bar
We pushed hard to the next water tank which was a metal tank with some gnarly algee but once you dipped below it was fine. We tried to make some shade as we were in no mans land of flat barren landscape. After hours of trying with the tarps the wind picked up and the cows were thirsty so we said screw it and packed up and moved on.
Cow tanks are a hikers friend out here
About 3 miles later we found a wash with many trees and shade we plopped down and rested out the heat of the day. Somehow Big John missed us and carried on, we eventually found him tucked under a tree.
Freefall took the time to make a structure while we rested
A treat today was getting a cell signal and checking with Suzy, it was great to hear her voice and chat a little about what each of us are up to, God I miss her and the pets. My blister had grown very large but it only hurts when I am not hiking like now in camp or when I try to sleep. I plan to get to Lordsburg in the am and drain the sucker in sterile environment.
This is one the gnarliest blisters i have had in years
All of us are dealing with various hiker ailments from sore muscles to blisters, chaffing of the nether regions and over exertion. When we get to camp we are symphony of grunts, groans and kevetching.
Full moon rising
Well until next time enjoy this Wild America, I have pasta to eat and muscles to stretch
Day 3, Sunny Siesta
CDT mile 54.2, miles hikes today 20
Lounging in the shade and enjoying our umbrellas
We awoke at dark and broke camp quickly so we could make the 4 miles or so we needed to get to the well/tank and get water. After laying down some quick miles we arrived to find a cow pond full of cow pooh but we were happy to see the pipe that pumps into it was away from the water and was good for drinking from. Once we had our fill of water we cranked out the next 6 miles across the mostly flat desert to the next cache box. 10 by 10 once again which is hiker talk for ten miles by 10 am if you can do that the 20 mile days come easy.
A tire hold life-giving water in NM
We lounged for an hour drinking water and eating food, we agreed to meet at the tank in 5 or 6 miles to have a siesta and relax during the heat of the day. As we traversed the valley we gradually climbed until we reached the tank and what a treat it was, a virtual oasis in the desert. The tank was tall and there was shade a rare treat in these parts. We cooked up some lunch and took a long siesta. It was great to relax in the shade and get a nap, while I feel I could do bigger miles I know that there is no reason to push my body this early in the hike, just like a year of trading lumber I have to remember it’s a marathon, not a sprint.
If I go too fast too soon I might end up like this cow
Having a great time with the group “Buttercup” who is from Germany is keeping all us in good spirits and teaching us some German during the day. He is a great addition to the group and we hope he sticks around for a while. I am now laying in bed and enjoying the full moon as it rises over the mountains in front of me, I am so fortunate to be out here and it makes me appreciate even more the long road it took to reach this point in life. I wake each day in awe and wonder of what will lie around each turn and I take great joy in the little things like the horny toad I saw today.
Time for some rest, and a happy 420 to all….ps my wife texted me that I won the 420 contest at our neighborhood head shop and she picked up a new 4′ tall glass bong so ultra light-HA
Day 2, Miles, Ice Cream and Soda
CDT mile 34.7, miles hiked 21
Flowers are blooming in the desert
We started out the day with a 5 am wake up call. The weather was cool but manageable as we packed up our gear, drank some cold coffee took care of the AM BM and then started out of camp around 6:25. The trail this morning was not a trail but more cross country through various desert plants like ocochita and choa and barrel cactus. We followed posts that have been placed and the navigation was much easier than expected.
CDTC has done a good job of adding signage
We passed by the Warrior Hikers as they were breaking camp and we trucked along wanting to get to water and have a mid-day break. We found a huge treat at about 9 am and we sat in the cool shade of a grotto and ate snacks, two of the warrior hikers caught up to us and we chatted with them before heading back out. We made good time and as we approached the cache box we spotted my friend Sean Gobin who founded the Warrior Hike program, he was at the road waiting for his guys with an RV and his awning stretched out. We jumped at the shade and sat in chairs, he gave us cold mountain dews and ice cream bars our first trail magic and an amazing treat on a hot shadeless day.
Big John caught up about an hour later and we stripped down his pack of extra gear and food and Sean took it to Lordsburg for him. We looked at the water report and noticed we had to go another 13 miles for water which would make a 25-mile day. We started back out about 2:30 and hoped we could make it. We ground it out all day long and finally at 6:45 we stopped short as the mileage was a hair too much for Big John and Greg in Wild.
When they arrived we decided we had gone far enough and would dry camp. We are sitting now looking at Hatchet Peak and where we came from. I just gobbled up a Cajun Rice and beans from Backpackers Pantry, thanks again Melissa and Michele for all the great food.
Sunrise over the desert
I will remember to put my hat low on my eyes because of the full moon and hope that an early start will put me at the water source within an hour of walking.
Day 1, The Border North Bound to Canada
CDT mile 13.7, miles hiked 13.7
My tiny hand and I touched Mexican soil before heading out
At 3 am I awoke to “Sweet Potato” moving around in the room and taking a shower, I guess we all had some pre-hike nerves preventing us from resting well. I rolled over and went back to sleep and we all rose at 5 am and got ready to head out.
The entire crew at the border before heading out
Loaded in trucks with hikers and packs we started south to the border a 3-hour drive along a rough road but manageable with the right rig. Teresa took the time to point out the water cache boxes, the route we would take, and the issues along the border with drug runners etc…
The Portland Mafia at the border ready to roll north
The border was a blast we saw our good friend Jester and there was a large group heading out with us, the 5 warrior hikers who are walking off the war by thru-hiking the CDT and then Tank and a German guy named Buttercup.
“Buttercup” has been a great addition to the crew and is giving us all free German lessons
After many pictures and saying goodbye to our friends, we started along the CDT traveling north. The day was generally easy walking along single tracks and double track trail. We enjoyed seeing all the local flora in bloom and stopped to rest in the shade and take pictures along the way. We played leap frog with the other groups and we arrived at cache box 1 there was a total of 15 of us all in one place, a huge number for the CDT. We stopped early cooked up some dinner and drank lots of water.
A good dinner is always a joy at the end of the day
We have all camped along a sandy wash now many of us cowboy camping so we can enjoy the night sky and the nearly full moon. It feels so wonderful to finally be hiking, the fact that all I have to do is now walk north for months is liberating and will allow me some solace to reflect on life and enjoy each day given to me along this trail.
Friends since college, Teresa Martinez the Executive Director of the CDTC took a special trip to drop me at the border
“Swami” of the hiking life a good friend made the journey to crazy cook to see me off
My tiny hand and I are going to Canada!
CDT Kick Off
The past few days have been a whirlwind, Thursday last week I wrapped a few last minute items at home like finally getting the washing machine fixed, had an hour of loving on Karluk before saying goodbye and Suzy came and whisked us off to the airport. I nearly lost it as I held my wife and best friend of 16 years in the terminal knowing we wouldn’t see each other for months, but in true fashion, she told me to, “buck up, and get going”. How I ever met such a wonderful woman is beyond what my feeble mind can comprehend she truly is a unicorn in the world of wives.
on the way to kick off
We set off from Albuquerque where me, “Big John”, “Freefall”, “Czech”, and “She-ra” all loaded into the minivan and set off to Silver City to celebrate the CDT and enjoy the second annual Kick-Off celebration. We wound our way down to the town through the night over mountain passes and dodging many a jackrabbit along the way. Finally arriving late at night worn out but happily greeted by “Sweet Potato” and his loyal dog Rodney.
A bit bruised but feeling much. better thanks again coach massage
The next morning things got underway before we even know which way to go. The boys sorted boxes and gear and I went for a visit to coach massage where Marshal spent an hour massaging and cupping my back and shoulder so the pain I had been experiencing the past few months would go away before I start my hike. If you are ever in Silver City and need a massage go see Coach Massage. After that, I headed to the Seedhouse Gallery where the weekend’s workshops took place. I was lucky to get a chance to speak to folks in town about a subject near and dear to me thru-hiking for the working stiff, it was a great talk and I enjoyed sharing stories of my adventures over the years. The rest of my day included a workshop from CDT mapping guru Jerry Brown whit taught us how to use his maps, various apps and a quick refresher on map and compass.
Jerry Brown teaching his class
The evening then moved to the Little Toad Brewery where the town hosted us and we enjoyed tons of beers, food and an amazing raffle. My hiking partner “Big John” won a ton of prizes and how now has some great new gear for trail including a CDTC logo Mont-bell umbrella.
“Jester” wins a hammock at the raffle
Saturday was an early 5 am wake up so we could set up in the big ditch. Vendors galore were in attendance including a few of my sponsors like Toaks, Leki, and my longest sponsor Gossamer Gear. We had a full day of talking trail, making CDT cookies, laughing and bs’ing. At 2:30 we strolled back to the Seedhouse to partake in the thru-hiker forum where we told tales, talked gear and had laughs galore talking about all things hiking. The keynote of the event was getting to listen to Jean Ella tell the tale of her 1978 thru-hike of the CDT, Jean was the first woman to they-hike the CDT and is one of my heroes, her talk was a great way to wrap up the day.
Jean Ella holding usall inn awe if her journey
Making cookies with Teresa Martinez of CDTC and Greg from Leki
Today was a leisurely breakfast followed by a hike up Gomez peak with various town folks and my good friend “She-ra” who was last year CDTC ambassador and we enjoyed hiking together and passing on the torch to me as this year’s ambassador.
handing off the torch from last years CDTC ambassador to this years
Atop Gomez Peak with “she-ra”, “spirit”, and Julie from Toaks
It was so great to see how much the kick off has grown in one year. Last year was a small event and this weekend was at least 4 times as big. I absolutely love Silver City and can’t wait to back there in 8 days. Until then it’s time to go fill up some water, have a beer with my good friend Swami and try to sleep before I head out. I am as giddy as a child on Christmas Eve and can not wait to take my first steps north in the morning.
The Final Countdown
With just days left before I leave my beloved Portland, Oregon I am deep in the throes of the final countdown. The last two weeks have been a whirlwind of sorting and packing gear, making resupply boxes and wrapping up the list of things that needed to be done at the home before I leave.
Food
“Big John” with his 35-year-old Mountain House Meals for the trip
Food is one of the biggest needs of the long distance hiker and one I have always struggled to find the right balance of weight to nutrition. On my first thru-hike in 1996 and for years I have lived primarily on the gas station snack type variety. While eating pop tarts, candy bars, hamburger helper without the hamburger and other off the shelf crap provides high calories those items often left me out of gas throughout the day as I would crash from the sugar. In 2012 I hiked the Wonderland Trail with my good friend “Sasquatch”, on this trip I made a conscious effort to eat better wholesome foods like dried coconut, whole grains, quinoa, granola, etc…. On that hike I felt stronger and had more energy than ever before on trail, so for this hike I decided to use a similar approach.
I am a very fortunate hiker, my years of attending the Outdoor Retailer show in Salt Lake City have given me some great connections, and the result is for the CDT I have some great food sponsors who are making my meal planning much easier and much healthier. Here are some for the staple items in every single resupply box I have packed and ready to go:
4 Flavors of UGO Bars to keep me fueled up on trail
- UGO Bars– I met Tracy the founder of UGO bars back in January at a happy hour event at OR. We started chatting about my plans and she asked if I needed a bar sponsor, which I did. We exchanged info and in 10 minutes time I was on the phone with Wes who runs their program. Every month while on trail UGO is supplying me their bars, unlike other companies these bars are 100% hand crafted in IN, the bars are Gluten-Free, Non-GMO, and Vegan. The bars are packaged in clear plastic because as the label says the have nothing to hide. I look forward to eating one of these little nuggets every morning while packing up my gear.
Salazon Chocolate is packed with so much awesomeness it’s hard to describe
- Salazon Chocolate– Anyone who knows me, will tell you I Love me some Dark Chocolate more than most people. On the Sierra High Route last year my partners laughed at the number of bars I had in my resupply, however when I was brewing up mochas on trail they all seemed to appreciate that the fat kids loves the dark stuff. To make any good chocolate into a backcountry mocha take a Starbucks Via packet, add a ¼ of a dark chocolate bar, add boiling water and stir like hell, this little treat will give the right buzz to get up the hardest climb. Salazon is a really cool company they have a 3 “trail bars” one for the Appalachian Trail, The Continental Divide Trail and the Pacific Crest Trail, proceeds from each bar sold go to trail organizations to help protect these national treasures. The awesomeness does not end there, each of the flavors they make have Sea Salt and what can be better than a chocolate buzz while replenishing the salts I’ll be losing while sweating all day.
Hairnets were in fashion for the factory tour in Boulder of Backpacker’s Pantry
- Backpacker’s Pantry– For over 20 years I have indulged myself on shorter trips and bought commercially available freeze-dried meals, however, the cost can add up on a longer hike. Of all the meals I have ever eaten Backpackers Pantry has risen to the top for their variety of meals, and the quality of their ingredients. I was lucky enough to tour their factory in Boulder, CO last month and I learned there that all their meals are chef inspired and created, they source the best ingredients possible, and every meal is hand packed and inspected by real live people. The company has recently expanded their meals selection with new ethnic meals, last summer I ate a lot of their Beef Pho and Kathmandu Curry while on trail. These meals are awesome, and they decided to sponsor me and hook me up with enough meals to fill my resupply boxes, thanks again!
So now that we have the food covered what else am I doing? Some call me a bit anal, I just like to think of it as being organized better than most folks. Yogi’s CDT Planner had a great piece of advice to prepare for the hike. Take all your extra gear and clothing at home that you might want and number it, then make a spread sheet and leave a copy at home and take one with you. This way when I need a new shirt instead of having to drive Suzy nuts looking for the right shirt she can open the extra clothes bin, find bag number 7 and send me a new shirt. This one piece of advice is very helpful and I am sure Suzy and I will both appreciate it while I am gone.
Gear is labeled and numbered for my trip and can easily be sent as needed
Besides all the prep work I am doing, I have also been trying to say my final goodbyes to friends and old coworkers. It’s been a busy couple of weeks going out for happy hours, eating burgers, drinking beer and saying bye to folks. It’s weird to think that everything I have known since college is about to be left behind to chase a dream, but I know that life will be here when I get back and life is too short to wait any longer.
Tired dogs on a sunny car camping trip
These guys are like brothers to me and we took sometime a week or so ago to have one last car camping trip before leaving
