The Dago Diaries

CDT mile 1035, miles hiked 25

Gnomes greeted us on the trail today

We rolled out of camp like a well-oiled machine we knew the morning was going to be easy miles down to the valley to grab water and then a gentle climb up to where the CDT and CT would split.  As we descended into the valley it looked like a rainbow gathering; all sorts of tents, bbq’s, leftover remnants of a drum circle etc….

ATV’s and jeeps a Colorado tradition

As we began our climb up we saw many a Colorado Trail hikers coming down.  One, in particular, made me feel like a celebrity he said are you hiking the CDT? Yes and then he said hey I read your blog you’re the guy from the dago diaries.  It was pretty cool to know a stranger actually reads my blog, his trail name is Seven because he has climbed the seven summits.  That to me was amazing but he said what I was doing is.  After that, we climbed.

When I got to the split there was no sign of Buttercup he took the CT for a bit before realizing his mistake. Once Cheezy made the climb we all ate lunch and then started in on our above treeline ridge walk.  I’ll let the pictures do the talking today, we are camped at 13,000′ preparing for 7 more miles of ridge walking then a climb up Grays and Torres peaks two 14’ers.

The high country

A few highlights today: our first mountain goats of the trip, crazy folks out on jeep safari, a knife edge that would make any mountain proud, and the company of good friends.

Flowers are coming out in full force

Sunset from 13,000′

Red Cone Mountain in the background

Walking to Webster Pass

Heading to the knife edge

A hanging cornice in the ridge we are going to

Cheezy enjoying her Backpackers pantry meal and new hat

CDT mile 1010.9, miles hiked 22.3

The Katabatic Gear crew out for a hike

We did it today we finally broke the 1000 mile mark, but let’s face it, this sounds way better in kilometers.  It feels great to be in 1000miles, the CDT is officially 3100 miles but the route I am doing will wind up around 2800 so I am about 1/3 done.  To beat the snow up north we’ll have to be disciplined the rest of the trip; up early and hike late, less time in town, and making sure that we do at least 20 miles a day.

Crossing the high country

Our day started with a mega early wake up at the CDTC WHQ, Teresa needed to get us dropped by 6:30 so she could make her trail work meet up in Grand Lake on time.  She raced us up to Evergreen and dropped us at a Starbucks for our next ride to get us back to the trail.

My friends Kris and Aaron who happen to own Katabatic Gear, makers of the best sleeping quilts ever and the ones who made my sleep system, came about an hour later and picked the three of us up.  The loaded us in their rig and drove us up to Copper Mountain.  We talked about trail and gear on the ride and then just about life.  Once at Copper, we found the spot we had ended the other day and then started out (my 1010.9 miles is still a continuous line of footsteps and one thing I’m proud of).  The 5 of us hiked together for the first 5 miles.  Luckily for them, we only gained 2400′.

The trails were crowded with weekend hikers but it was nice to have Kris and Aaron along to talk with and mix up the conversation.  We chatted a lot about trail techniques as they’re considering thru-hiking the Colorado trail this fall.  Finally, at the top of the ridge, they had to go say goodbye and get back to town.

If this trail’s name isn’t creepy my tiny hand is

The three of us continued on, below we spotted the town of Breckenridge and we worked our way down the trail to highway 9.  At the parking lot trailhead we met a nice lady who had just gotten off the CT, she shared two half drank sodas with us before we hiked on, once under the highway we spotted an RV park.  Now most hikers don’t see RV parks as an oasis but we do, we went to the office and bought sodas, filled up our water and then sat at their picnic table and snacked.  Finally, after a bit, we started on our last leg of the day.

We climbed through a logged out area and kept flipping between public and private land, finally back on good old USFS soil we found some water and decided to push on up the next ridge for the evening.  The climb was gentle and well switchbacked, we ran across many a mountain biker and Colorado Trail hiker, everyone was out enjoying the nice weather.

The snow is about gone for us, this ridge led us down to Breckenridge

When I reached camp buttercup was busy getting firewood and setting up camp.  We all decided to cowboy camp and then settled in for dinner.  Once done with dinner we felt a few raindrops and then a light shower came down just enough for all of us to scramble to put up our tents.

Miles Hiked 0

Alpine flowers are in bloom

After a long awaited time and many miles hiked we finally made it to the CDTC WHQ also known as my good friends Teresa’s house.  Our trip here was great Wes form Ugo Bars had driven up the night before with plans to camp out and then give us a ride, the previous nights rain though had him in a hotel too, so we met for coffee in the morning and then the four of us loaded up and rolled down the highway.  Wes was great and is one of the most intelligent and mature 21-year-old men I have ever met in my life.  He treated us to baked goods and various snacks on our ride and made us feel like heroes on our trip down to the WHQ.

Once at Teresa’s we caught up on the trail, showered, did laundry and then got to the store for our resupply.  It was strange once again to drive a car, but especially this time as we were on a highway and there was other traffic.  King Super by the WHQ was a weird place for us to go to, it was crowded and all of the people were in a rush, we took our time, got out food and then headed back up the hill for dinner.  Teresa had a special treat for us she had saved some salmon and halibut I had given her in December when she was in Portland and we thawed it out and had a lovely dinner of fish, asparagus and salad it was a great treat and reminded me of home.  We wrapped up the evening with a movie and then turned in for a good nights rest.

The next morning, well today we woke up to have breakfast and then loaded up in the car and headed into Golden on our way to  Boulder.  We stopped at the CDTC office to say hi to Guthrie and then Me, Cheezy and Buttercup ran up to Boulder to visit some of my sponsors.  We started at Mont-bell where I got hooked hop with some new clothes that fit better and will keep me cooler in the coming heat.  We then had a fashion show as Cheezy tried on numerous outfits to get herself some new trail duds.  After we figured out what we need we drove acres town to Backpackers Pantry whee we saw Melissa and I handed off my camera for her to download pictures for their needs.  She gave us a great gift of some meals and a new hat for each of us.

My loyal dog Karluk is having fun at home while I’m away

We then cruised back down to Golden to meet our friend Peg Leg who we hadn’t seen since Chama when she had gone home to get some work done on her house. We enjoyed a lunch buffet at the Sherpa House which is amazing and then headed to the outfitter for some fuel canisters, tent stakes, and new socks for Buttercup and then a quick trip to rn a few more errands before heading back up the hill to rest up, pack up and get ready for our next leg on trail.

CDT mile 988.6, miles hiked 22

Two residents of the Black Forest

We slept in for a bit this morning and I think all of us needed some extra rest to recover from the past few days of pushing miles in elevation.  After finally storing out of bed we rolled down to the golden burro cafe for a relaxed breakfast.  I chowed down on a large chicken fried steak and pancake.   After that we rolled to the post office and sent off some stuff before returning to the hostel to pack up to go.

The famous Leadville Hostel

A walk through town brought us to the local Subway I had a few gift cards from the Perry family from my birthday so I treated Buttercup and Cheezy to a sub to eat on our way out of town.  From there we went to Safeway to grab a days worth of food and meet up with Stop n Go.  We took off for the hitch back to trail, a nice guy gave all of us a ride back to trail and then we started our hike for the day.

Climbing to the ridge

We walked along an old road and passed Camp Hale home of the 10th mountain divisions training grounds before they headed to fight in Italy.  From there we had to climb 2,000′ over 4 miles, the trail was not too steep and the climb went quicker than expected.  When Cheesy and I reached the top of the ridge the sky was dark and the thunder could be heard far off in the distance.  We saw the next few miles would be a along a treeless ridge and very exposed, we had no choice but to push on.  The two of us put on our rain jackets to cut the wind and started walking as fast we could.  When we finally made our way across the ridge and crested the final pass (Selden Pass) the sky opened up and the rain started to come down.  The Thunder and lightning started up and the two of us turned on the afterburners to make the trees ASAP.  As we started down we found Stop N Go sitting on the ridge having a snack with a storm brewing, confused and bewildered we told him to get his ass moving downhill as that was bad place to be.  The three of us cruised downhill trying to get to Jacque Creek to meet Buttercup.  Once in the trees, the lightning kept getting closer, once right above us we sat in the trees with packs off waiting for the lightning to pass.

A ridge and a storm, Cheezy works her way towards Selden Pass

Once it passed we walked on in the pouring rain, the rain was cold (later we learned it was 40 degrees) and we all wished it would let up but it didn’t.  We kept walking as quick as we could and found Buttercup hiding under agree trying to stay warm, we all decided to keep on moving and make it to the highway if possible, as the sun was setting we made it to a group of houses at the top of a ski run, we debated a stealth camp among them but after a few minutes deviate we opted to try a hotel at the resort.  We walked down the road and stumbled into a camp at hotel, after a few minutes of expelling ourselves they suggested a bus to Frisco so we could get a cheap room, a hot meal, and get warm.

I work my way towards the woods through mud and rain

We rode the bus down the hill and a few minutes later were checked into the Snowshoe Hotel, our hunger was huge so we walked up the street and got some amazing Italian food.  A hottie Totty and Chicken Parm were a great way to end a soggy day.  The rain kept coming and going and I think I speak for everyone when I say we just wish the rain would go away for bit and let us enjoy the Colorado high country.

CDT mile 966.7, miles hiked 16.6

Breakfast in bed thanks to backpackers pantry

We woke up late, the previous day’s push over Mt Elbert and the long hike had taken its toll on everyone.  We chewed down whatever food we had left and then one by one we filed out of camp.  I was the first to leave but a few miles in and I was passed by Buttercup and Stop n Go.

A nice high meadow and a great place to take a rest

The morning had a few climbs and then a long descent/traverse to Tennessee Pass.  At the end of the third climb, I was wiped out and sat down to have a snack and take a break.  All morning I felt weak and tired so I started in on some bars to see if the food would help.  Cheezy showed up joined me, she too was shot from the previous day.  We ate snacks and talked about life.  It was an intimate talk about the other day when I cried on the mountain and I shared with her the story of my friend Tim who passed away from cancer 9 years ago, after that moment together we decided to grind it out to the end.

Another day, another wilderness area

We rolled through some soft snow and then into the traverse through the forest the walking was easy and quick enough but being so tired I just wanted to hit the road and get into town.  When I hit the pass Stop n Go and Buttercup were there, Buttercup wanted to hike .3.5 more miles to where the trail crossed the highway again, we begrudgingly agreed and then in a bit of anger I cranked out the miles in under an hour.

A town mural celebrating their annual event

A quick hitch into town dropped as at the PO and then the hostel.  The Leadville hostel is one of the nicest ones I have stayed at.  Cathy who still runs the hostel welcomed us with open arms and helped us get settled in with towels, beds, and a tour around the place.  A big plus for me was getting a new pair of Altra Lone Peaks with new tread, so I can finally stop slipping and sliding my way through Colorado.  After getting cleaned up and clothes washed we stumbled down to the brewery a few blocks away and enjoyed a few IPA’s and and a few snacks.

For dinner we got a hot tip from Snorkel that Quincy’s in Leadville had a steak special that stared with a 6oz filet for $9.95 and all the way up to a 15oz one for $18.95 with all the fixings.  we met a nice girl traveling form TN to climbs some peaks out from TN, she came along with us and the group all enjoyed some nice dinners, a few margaritas later and next thing we knew we were drinking cocktails and listening ti the jukebox in the famous Dollar Saloon in Leadville, which boast it is the best Saloon in the West.  After the music ran out and the drinks made us a bitty dizzy we strolled up the road to hostel where we fell fast asleep and enjoyed a soft bed and good nights sleep.

CDT mile 926.6, miles hiked 20.5

A frosty sleeping quilt

I woke up to a frozen bag, socks, and shoes….last nights cowboy camp was more like a night back in New Mexico than Colorado.  We were slow to get going each of us not wanting to leave the warmth of our beds.  Finally, after some coffee and some team motivation, we got going.  Probably the worst part was having to soak our shoes in the river to thaw them out so we could put them on.

The trail led us down the nice valley we saw many aspens forest, dee, and even an elk as we strolled along the trail.  Then it happened for the first time on this trip we saw day hikers and weekenders out on trail.  Summer is finally here and with it the unsuspecting tourist that we will try to yogi food and drink from.

A classic pyramid mountain shape

I met up with Buttercup and Cheezy at the junction for the hope pass trail which would take us to twin lakes for our resupply.  As we say there snacking a group of trail runners came by who were all training for the Leadville 100 in August.  Some of them had run the Leadville marathon yesterday so this was their second run of the weekend.  Buttercup looked at us and said, I’ll see you two up top I am going to catch these guys and pass them.” With that he was gone and cheesy and I started our grind up the trail.

I plugged in my earphones and turned on some music to help me with the 2400′ climb.  First it was Violent Fems but then once I was above tree line I turned on the Royal Philharmonic album of Pink Floyd.  As I reached the last few switch backs The Great Gig in the Sky came on.  This is one  of my favorite songs and the one I want played at my memorial service once I pass on from this world.  As it played uncontrollable tears streamed down my face, I thought of friends I have lost over the years and how each was up there above me looking down and smiling upon me right then.  It’s weird I was told I would cry on the CDT but never did I think it would be like this.  Maybe it’s the raw emotions you feel because you are open to the universe, or maybe it’s fatigue but either way the past few weeks I have had times when I cry and it actually feels good maybe I am growing emotionally and letting down my guard.

Once I finally made Hope Pass I saw Buttercup there he informed me it took him 50 minutes to make the pass ( me shy of two hours).  We waited for Cheezy, talked to more runners and then set off down the mountain for Twin Lakes.

Twin lakes is more of a remote stop than a town.  We walked right up to the food cart and ordered some BBQ.  We ran into Stop n Go who asked to hike this next leg with us, including a climb up Mt Elbert.  After gorging myself on food we went to the store and to our amazement they were well stocked to resupply.  We got our needs and the friendly owners chatted with us for a while.  We charged our devices, had some sodas and then headed out.

A bridge over the river feeding Twin Lakes was flowing high from the recent snow melt

We climbed the road up from town into the hills and set up camp early to hydrate and rest before tomorrow’s big climb up MT Elbert our first 14’er and the second highest peak in the lower 48.